Shining neon lights unquelled by the hourly power outages adorn its exterior, flashing hues of pink, green, and yellow onto the red lanterns hanging outside the main entrance. Groups settle themselves around tables overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, sipping on bottles of Tsingtao as they dip pork intestines and duck blood into a yuan yang pot. Li is one of the seven chefs at the Grand Leone Restaurant, where he specializes in huai cai , the cuisine of his home province of Jiangsu.
According to him, the company employs about Chinese employees, hailing from all provinces in the mainland. They were mostly hired via word-of-mouth, with he himself being recommended for the role by a childhood friend from the same village.
The owner would hold special events to celebrate major Chinese holidays, sometimes in collaboration with the Chinese embassy. This year would be his sixth, a lucky number. Upstairs, Afrobeats blasted from the speakers, flanked by television screens that flashed advertisements for the latest Chinese dramas. In a few short months, SkyBar — the sports bar above the restaurant — has become a nightlife destination for locals and expats alike.
It was opened by a young woman known as Bobo — a fellow Beijinger, and a hustler. I watched as she parted the dance floor in purposeful strides, giving instructions to half a dozen employees in a mix of English, Mandarin, and Krio.
Sierra Leone is one of the poorest countries in the world, still recovering from a colonial past and an year civil war. A unique diaspora has formed over the years, laying roots for the spread of Chinese influence in Freetown. Traditional Chinese medicine clinics and massage parlors have popped up alongside restaurants and grocery stores. A Confucian Institute was established in Fourah Bay College, offering Mandarin lessons to those as young as primary school children.
