Christmas is my season. In September, I become as antsy as a child, wondering if the holiday season will ever arrive. I greet Halloween with disdain and grow impatient with Thanksgiving preparations. As December nears, I head out in search out the most Christmasy spots on the map. The last week of November found me in the Alsace region of France, which shares a border with Germany.
In my years of research, the Alsace consistently tops the lists of best holiday travel experiences. Before we arrived, I received an e-mail warning that the entire center of Colmar, our base for the week, would be closed to traffic during the Christmas season due to multiple holiday displays and Christmas markets. Day 1: Colmar We stepped off the train in Colmar to find a Christmas tree display, and I immediately headed into the historic, half-timbered center of town.
My husband, bewildered, wanted to know how I found my bearings so quickly. Every building, every square, and even the foliage was decorated. The effect was mesmerizing. I was in heaven. We arrived early in the evening. We only had enough time to gape in awe at the storybook nature of the town before it was time for the five Colmar Christmas markets to close.
The town was busy, but I had secured reservations at Wistub Brenner, a traditional Alsatian restaurant located in the heart of the historic center. If you are on a diet, you do not want to visit the Alsace. This food is heavy, indulgent, and so, so good. The region has changed hands several times between France and Germany, and the cuisine is an interesting mash-up of German and French.
Think cheese plates, fondue, foie gras, sauerkraut, sausage, potato salad, and delicate pastries all found in one place, and sometimes all on the same table! Mulhouse is not particularly charming, but it had a small and enjoyable Christmas market that was open for business. This may sound odd, but you do not need to be a shopper to enjoy Christmas markets. I focus on them as places of traditions, decorations, food, drink, and social gatherings.
