This isn't going to be an open letter — although it could be — because I love Patek Philippe. Self-winding watches, perpetual calendars, chronographs, repeaters — effectively all contemporary complications have a basis in something that Patek Philippe was involved with in a material way. And some of Patek's watches today are exceptional — hell, I got married in a Patek Philippe. That's the type of brand that I think Patek is.
Having said that, this isn't going to be a love letter, either. No brand is perfect, and some of its recent choices aren't what I would expect or hope of Patek today. Let's get into it. But I am just back from seeing the new collection and speaking to Thierry Stern directly about this launch, so I thought it was time to put some pen to paper, like back in the old days.
Today, in Munich, the home of the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition, the world's most important high-end watchmaker unveiled its first new collection in 25 years. This story will be a long one — because there's a lot to say here.
So bear with me and read this whole story before jumping to the comments section to say how much you dont like it or why should anyone care because you can't get one anyway, please. Here is what you need to know. Let's get into the facts first before we begin to analyze and dissect. Let's start with what will easily be the most in-demand model — reference A. The A here stands for "acier," or steel, in English.
You have a bracelet that is every bit the Nautilus, complete with the updated micro-adjustable clasp that was introduced on the G — and a new square case that features the same finishing format as the Nautilus. Specifically, "vertical satin-brushed on the flat surface of the bezel, the top of the case and the side links of the bracelet; polished on the bezel chamfer, the sides of the case middle and the central bracelet links. The case is 45mm in diameter but remember it's square, not round — so traditional sizing notions go out the window and just 8.
