French gastronomy has more than its share of unusual culinary traditions for example, frog legs , but there's a certain controversial dish that just might win the top prize. The meal is considered so decadent that it's traditionally eaten with a napkin draped over one's head to shield the act from the eyes of God. Some say the napkin adds to the experience, capturing the food's aroma. Others insist that it's an elaborate gastronomic ritual.
It's often described as "eating the soul of France. The ortolan has been considered a delicacy since the Roman Empire ruled much of Europe thanks to the bird's rich, fatty flavor. By the 18th century, the songbird became a symbol of haute cuisine in France and was enjoyed by royals and the elite.
In the 20th century, as it became ever more rare, the dish came to be seen as the ultimate French luxury. But not everyone in Europe was infatuated with the controversial dish. Thanks to over-harvesting and habitat loss, the ortolan bunting's numbers began to drop. In , the European Union voted to ban the hunting and sale of the songbird, and France reluctantly followed with stricter enforcement measures two decades later.
But despite all these legal protections, some diehard fans are still capturing and consuming the ortolan, often as an act of defiance. Preparing an ortolan for eating is somewhat more intense than getting your average chicken ready.
The birds are traditionally captured and kept in darkened cages to confuse their internal clocks, causing them to overeat and put on a considerable amount of fat. In this way, ortolan is quite similar to foie gras, a luxury King Charles won't touch. Once fattened, the birds are drowned in Armagnac, a French brandy.
